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INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
TOOLS & MATERIALS REQUIRED
Polyethylene foam or other undercoat/water - resistant membrane (where necessary) approved by
Armak / Spacers / Installation block / Installation bar / Hammer / Knife / Measuring tape /
Pencil / Wide roll of adhesive tape (50 mm /2 in of duct-type tape) / Circular saw with
fine-toothed carbide blade / Safety glasses / Silicone compound for kitchens or bathrooms
(where necessary).
CONCRETE SUB-FLOOR
1) The sub-floor must be dry (<5% humidity).
2) Make sure the sub-floor is clean, flat, smooth and even. Slopes of more than 6 mm (1/4 in)
over more than 2 meters (6 feet) must be leveled. Correct all slopes with leveling compound.
Allow the compound to dry for at least 1 week before installing laminate flooring.
3) Apply an anti-dust sealant.
4) Spread a water-resistant membrane consisting of a film of polyethylene 0.2 mm (0.008 in)
thick and let the edges overlap 200 mm (8 in). Seal the edges by installing the wide adhesive
tape along the whole joint.
5) Attach the water-resistant membrane up 25 mm (1 in) on the walls to keep humidity from
infiltrating through the edges of the flooring.
6) Spread polyethylene foam or any other Armak approved undercoat on the water-resistant
membrane. Hold the edges together with the wide adhesive tape but avoid overlapping.
7) Follow Installation Instructions.
WOODEN SUB-FLOOR AND OTHER SURFACES
1) Make sure the sub-floor is clean, flat, smooth and even. Slopes of more than 6 mm (1/4 in)
over more than 2 meters (6 feet) must be leveled. Correct all slopes (if you use a leveling
compound, you must install a water-resistant membrane over the section being repaired).
2) Spread polyethylene foam or any other Armak approved undercoat on the water-resistant
membrane. Hold the edges together with the wide adhesive tape but avoid overlapping.
3) Follow Installation Instructions.
SPECIAL NOTES
1) On all concrete sub-floors, any carpet or under-carpet must be removed to avoid humidity
problems.
2) If you have radiant floor heating, make sure to lower the thermostat to 15ºC/ 60º F at
least 1 week before the installation (do not turn the heat off if the outside temperature is
below freezing).
3) In bathrooms, installation of Roxston laminate flooring is recommended for powder rooms only
and a water-resistant membrane must also be installed. Roxston laminate flooring is not
recommended for full bathrooms or saunas, because of their increased humidity level. Also
note that before installing finishing moldings, a kitchen or bathroom silicone compound must
be applied at the edges of the flooring, especially where the edges are visible (e.g. around
pipes, toilet base, etc.). Once all edges are sealed, the moldings can be installed. For
greater protection, the silicone com-pound can be applied to the junction of the moldings
and the laminate flooring.
PRE-INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
1) Allow packages of flooring to lie flat on the floor for at least 48 hours before installation
in the room where they will be installed.
2) Make sure to leave a free space of at least 12.5 mm (1/2 in) between the top of the laminated
flooring and the bottom of electric baseboard heaters.
3) Check the space between doors and doorframes to be sure that the doors will swing freely
without coming into contact with the laminated surface and that there is enough clearance
(8 mm or 5/16 in) below the doorframe to allow the floor to expand.
4) Remove the moldings and baseboards.
5) Although the boards can be installed in any direction, the rule is that floors are
generally installed so that they are perpendicular to a wall with a window. Moreover, installing
the boards parallel to the longest wall tends to make the room appear bigger.
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
Roxston laminate floors are installed without glue and must be put down as a "floating f1oor."
1) Measure the room carefully in order to determine whether the walls are square and to calculate
the width of the last row. If the last row is less than 50 mm/2 in wide, a second cut will be
necessary to ensure the stability of the floor (do not include the tongue on the board in the
measurements because the tongues will be removed from the last row of boards. If the wall is
irregular, the boards in the first row must be cut in a way to follow the curve of the wall.
It should be noted that any floor more than 10 m/33 feet wide or long requires an expansion joint.
2) Before starting to cut a board (wear safety glasses), always make sure that the teeth of the
saw are installed so as to enter in the decorative surface of the board.
3) The floor must be installed from left to right from one of the corners of the room, with
the grooved sides placed against the walls. Place the spacers between the floor and the wall,
one shim on the width and one at each end of the boards that fit into each other (the spacers
provide enough space for expansion around the perimeter of the floor. It is especially important
to leave at least 8 mm/5/16 in of free space around the edge of the whole floor, including under
the door frames). The boards at the end of each row must not be less than 200 mm/8 in long to
ensure stability. If an end board is less than 200 mm/8 in long, it is advisable to make a
second cut in the first board of this row. The remainder of the board in this row can then be
used as the first board in the next row.
4) For the first row, "clip" all four inch wide sides together and place the first plank flat
against the spacers (tongue side). To install the next board, raise it to a slight angle in
order to allow the tongue to slide into the groove of the first board. Once the second board
is installed quite flat, push it or use an installation block and a hammer (installation bar
and hammer for the last board of a row) to gently knock the boards until they fit together perfectly.
5) For the second row and those following, raise the board to a slight angle on its length in
order to allow the tongue to fit in the groove. Insert the next board in the same way by placing
the tongue on the left side of the board just beside the preceding board. Once the second board
is inserted flat, push it or use and installation block and a hammer (installation bar and hammer
for the last board of a row) to gently knock the boards until they fit together perfectly.
6) For the last row, place a board precisely on the last board installed. Put another board on
top but place its edge some 8 mm / 5/16 in of the wall. Draw a cutting line along the board in
the middle and cut it along this line.
7) Stretch the board that has been cut and slide it into position, using the installation
bar supplied in the kit. Insert the spacers between the wall and the last board installed
in order to leave an expansion space of 8 mm / 5/16 in.
8) To get around obstacles in the floor (pipes, radiator supports), draw a line in the zone
to be cut with a pencil. First find the center, then cut it using a bit large enough to allow
peripheral tolerance of 8 mm / 5/16 in. Cut the strip in two so that the saw line is in the
middle of the hole, then bring together the two parts on either side of the pipe. If the
obstacle is located lengthwise on a strip, cut it in a trapezoidal form; otherwise a straight
cut is recommended. You can walk on the floor as soon as it is installed.
FINISH
1) Remove the spacers. Fold back the film of polyethylene along the T moldings, under the
laminate flooring. Cover the expansion joints along the perimeter of the floor, using moldings
for baseboards or quartered timbers. Attach these materials to the wall without gluing them to
the floor.
2) Attach the top part of the T moldings in order to mask the expansion joints.
3) Remaining boards can be kept for several years if stored flat and protected from humidity.
4) All furniture can be moved back in place as soon as the installation is over.
MAINTENANCE
The manufacturer recommends cleaning the floor with a broom or a vacuum cleaner or a rag soaked
with a small amount of a diluted cleaning agent. Persistent stains must be removed with a rag
soaked in a small quantity of acetone.
WARRANTY
The manufacture warrants that the laminate flooring in this package meets the NF B 54-020 and
EN 13329 standards. Examine the flooring to detect any flaws or damage immediately because no
claims will be accepted after installation. The warranty is limited to 25 years from the day of the purchase of the Roxston laminate flooring.
For these products, the receipt with the date and name of the product, accompanied by the boxed
installation instructions will be accepted as proof of purchase.
The warranty is subject to the following terms and conditions:
a. Roxston flooring must be installed and used indoors only, in accordance with instructions.
b. Damage does not stem from abusive use or from scratches, blows or cuts.
c. Damaged surface must be clearly visible within a strip (5 cm2 / 2 in2 or more).
d. Damage will be evaluated from a standing position (a height of at least 1.5 m / 5 ft) under
normal lighting conditions.
e. Warranty is progressive and takes into account deterioration from wear, at the rate of about
5% per year for Roxston flooring.
f. Product was installed by a floor installation professional or an individual who acknowledges
having followed standard practices and the manufacturer's recommendations.
g. No claims will be considered for scratches or other damage stemming from abusive use of the
product.
The manufacturer may not be held responsible for damage that occurred during storage or transport
for which the customer is responsible. If a claim is accepted, the manufacturer agrees to repair or replace the flawed materials but is not responsible for labour costs. This compensation is the only recourse available to customers. The services under this warranty do not extend the initial warranty period. The manufacturer does not authorize any company or agent to change or extend the terms and conditions of this warranty.
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